Welcome back to Episode 10! This episode, we continued the reassembly process and completed the following tasks while swapping the Mercedes OM606 Turbodiesel into the 1995 F150 XLT.
- Taped up Ford wiring harness, plugged it in, and laid it aside
- Installed Alternator
- Installed AC Compressor
- Installed Power Steering Pump
- Made Power Steering Lines
- Installed Our 3D Printed Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Mount
- Installed Throttle Position Sensor
- Installed Vacuum Transfer Solenoid
- Installed Throttle Cable and Made Custom Mount
- Added Helper Throttle Spring
- (Off Camera) Installed Heater Core Hoses
- (Off Camera) Installed Oil Pressure Switch
- (Off Camera) Put Serpentine Belt On
Our 3D Printed Throttle Position Sensor and Throttle Cable Solution
In a previous blog post, I gave some insight into the 3D printed throttle position sensor that I had made to help us retain our factory PCM and give us an easy way to pull a throttle position signal for when I finally install the Quick Shift 4 from US Shift that I bought along with my transmission adapter.
In this episode, we finally installed that throttle position sensor mount and it fit really well! It does need about 2mm more of spacing on the backside, so I used some small washers to fix that problem. If I decide to remake the mount, I will fix this problem, but for now it fits just fine. The other dilemma is the fact the Ford TPS is a 90 degree TPS and the Mercedes Injection Pump only has about 60 degrees of throttle lever travel, so I am curious how the stock Ford PCM will behave with that. If it doesn’t perform well, we can simply install the Quick 4 transmission controller and set our throttle position range manually.
One thing that was a little frustrating was figuring out how I was going to run the throttle cable. I will not go into much detail on this now because I DO NOT like how it is currently run. The linkage comes very close to the glow plugs and it will make more sense for me to remove the injection pump to tap a hole in the bottom arm of the throttle lever to place a ball and socket to pull the throttle lever instead. I will detail that later on and likely make an amendment to this blog post once that is done. For now, I am not changing it for the sake of time and money. I also added a carburetor helper spring from Autozone to ensure the throttle would go back to zero.
We also installed the vacuum switchover valve so the injection pump will turn on/off with key on/off power. This was simple and I placed it next to the glow plug relay unplugged until we put the battery back in and can ensure which wires are key-on 12v power.
If you’ve got questions about this swap, especially if you’re thinking of doing something similar, drop a comment or DM me at @hankejohnson or @hankscarsandcoffee on YouTube, Instagram, Facebook, or TikTok. I’m trying to share every step in detail so that others can follow along—or learn from my mistakes.
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